
The best approach is to make one change at a time, test the car, then adjust the next setting. This matters because tire pressure, springs, camber, anti-roll bars, damping, aero, brakes, gearing, and differentials can all affect handling in different parts of a corner.
1. How to Access Tuning in Forza Horizon 6
To tune a car in Forza Horizon 6, open the Cars tab, select the car you want to adjust, then choose Upgrades & Tuning. Depending on the adjustable parts installed, the tuning menu can include tire pressure, gearing, alignment, anti-roll bars, springs, damping, aero, brakes, and differentials.
Parts such as Race Suspension, Race Differential, adjustable aero, or a tunable gearbox unlock some of those categories. If you’re looking to use rare cars, check our detailed guide on how to get all Treasure cars.
- Open the Pause Menu.
- Go to Cars and select Upgrades & Tuning.
- Pick the category you want to adjust.
- Change one setting at a time.
- Test the car on the same route after every major change.
- Save the tune once the car feels stable.
2. Best Upgrade Order Before Tuning
Tuning works best after the car has the right adjustable parts. If your build still has stock suspension, stock differential, or non-adjustable gearing, some tuning options may not appear.
| Priority | Upgrade | Main Use |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Tires / Tire Compound | Grip changes everything else in the tune |
| 2 | Tire Width | More contact patch helps braking, cornering, and launches |
| 3 | Weight Reduction | Lighter cars turn, brake, and accelerate better |
| 4 | Race Suspension | Unlocks springs, ride height, and alignment tuning |
| 5 | Race Anti-Roll Bars | Unlocks front/rear roll stiffness tuning |
| 6 | Race Differential | Unlocks acceleration and deceleration lock settings |
| 7 | Transmission / Gearbox | Unlocks final drive or full gear ratio tuning |
| 8 | Aero | Adds adjustable downforce where useful |
| 9 | Brakes | Unlocks brake balance and pressure tuning |
| 10 | Power Upgrades | Add power after the chassis can handle it |
3. All Tuning Settings and Best Baseline Setup
Use this table as a simple starting point for tuning in Forza Horizon 6. These are baseline settings, so adjust them after testing the car on the same route.
| Tuning Tab | What It Controls | Best Baseline |
|---|---|---|
| Tire Pressure | Grip, response, and tire contact | Start around 27–30 PSI for road cars. Lower for more grip, raise for sharper response. Use lower pressure for rally and rear drag tires. |
| Gearing | Acceleration and top speed | Shorten Final Drive for acceleration, touge, rally, and short tracks. Lengthen it for highways, drag, and top-speed builds. |
| Alignment | Camber, toe, and steering feel | Use mild negative camber for grip. Keep Toe at 0.0 for most builds. Use small front toe-out only if turn-in feels weak. |
| Anti-Roll Bars | Body roll and corner balance | Soften the front if the car understeers. Soften the rear if the car oversteers. Use softer bars for rally. |
| Springs | Suspension stiffness and weight transfer | Use stiffer springs for smooth road racing. Use softer springs for rally, dirt, bumps, and jumps. |
| Ride Height | How low the car sits | Lower for road racing if it does not bottom out. Raise for rally, off-road, snow, curbs, and uneven routes. |
| Damping | How fast suspension compresses and rebounds | Keep Bump Stiffness lower than Rebound. Soften damping if the car skips over bumps. Stiffen slightly if it feels floaty. |
| Aero | High-speed grip and top speed | Add downforce for road grip and fast corners. Use minimum aero for drag and top-speed builds. Add rear aero if the car feels unstable. |
| Brakes | Brake balance and brake pressure | Start slightly front-biased. Lower brake pressure if tires lock. Move balance forward if the car spins under braking. |
| Differential | Power delivery and wheel lock | Lower accel lock if the car slides on exit. Raise it if the inside wheel spins. Use rear-biased AWD for better rotation. |
3.1. Road Racing
Road racing needs balanced grip, stable braking, clean corner exit, and enough top speed for straights. Use this baseline for most AWD and RWD road builds before fine-tuning.
| Setting | Best Starting Range |
|---|---|
| Front Tire Pressure | 27.0–28.5 PSI cold |
| Rear Tire Pressure | 27.0–28.5 PSI cold |
| Final Drive | Adjust so top gear nearly reaches redline on the longest straight |
| Front Camber | -1.2 to -1.8 |
| Rear Camber | -0.8 to -1.4 |
| Front Toe | 0 |
| Rear Toe | 0 |
| Caster | 5.5–6.5 |
| Anti-Roll Bars | Medium front / slightly softer rear for stability |
| Ride Height | Low, but not bottoming out |
| Rebound Damping | Medium; stiffer for smooth roads |
| Bump Damping | Around two-thirds of rebound |
| Aero | Medium if the car has high-speed corners |
| Brake Balance | Slightly front-biased |
| Brake Pressure | 90–110%, depending on ABS and lockups |
| RWD Diff | 40–60% accel / 20–40% decel |
| AWD Center Split | 60–70% rear bias |
3.2. Touge and Grip Builds
Touge roads need fast turn-in, good braking stability, and strong corner exit. These roads are tighter than normal road racing, so you usually want slightly shorter gearing and a more responsive front end.
Use the event tables below as starting baselines, not final tunes. Test each setup on the same route, then adjust one setting at a time based on whether the car understeers, oversteers, spins on exit, bottoms out, or runs out of gear.
| Setting | Best Starting Range |
|---|---|
| Front Tire Pressure | 26.5–28.0 PSI cold |
| Rear Tire Pressure | 26.5–28.0 PSI cold |
| Final Drive | Slightly shorter than road racing |
| Front Camber | -1.5 to -2.0 |
| Rear Camber | -1.0 to -1.5 |
| Front Toe | 0.0 or +0.1 toe out if turn-in is weak |
| Rear Toe | 0.0 |
| Caster | 6.0–6.5 |
| Anti-Roll Bars | Softer front if the car pushes wide |
| Ride Height | Low-medium for bumps and curbs |
| Aero | Higher front and rear if the route has fast sweepers |
| Differential | Lower accel lock for tight corner exits |
3.3. Rally and Off-Road
Rally and off-road tuning needs more suspension travel, softer damping, and shorter gearing. Do not use a slammed road tune on dirt routes because the car will bounce, lose contact, and slide unpredictably.
| Setting | Best Starting Range |
|---|---|
| Front Tire Pressure | 24.0–27.0 PSI |
| Rear Tire Pressure | 24.0–27.0 PSI |
| Final Drive | Shorter than road racing |
| Front Camber | -0.8 to -1.5 |
| Rear Camber | -0.5 to -1.2 |
| Toe | 0.0 front / 0.0 rear |
| Caster | 5.0–6.0 |
| Anti-Roll Bars | Softer than road racing |
| Springs | Softer than road racing |
| Ride Height | Medium-high to high |
| Rebound Damping | Softer than road racing |
| Bump Damping | Softer for bumps and landings |
| Aero | Low-medium unless the car needs stability |
| AWD Differential | Strong rear bias, but not too aggressive |
3.4. Drift Cars
Drift tuning is different because you want controlled oversteer, quick steering response, and enough wheelspin to hold angle. RWD is usually the cleanest drift setup, although AWD drift builds can work with strong rear bias.
| Setting | Best Starting Range |
|---|---|
| Front Tire Pressure | 28.0–32.0 PSI |
| Rear Tire Pressure | 30.0–40.0 PSI |
| Final Drive | Short enough to stay in the powerband |
| Front Camber | -3.0 to -5.0 |
| Rear Camber | -0.5 to -1.5 |
| Front Toe | +0.5 to +1.0 toe out |
| Rear Toe | 0.0 to -0.2 toe in |
| Caster | 6.5–7.0 |
| Anti-Roll Bars | Stiffer rear for easier rotation |
| Springs | Medium-stiff |
| Ride Height | Low-medium |
| Brake Balance | Slight front bias |
| Brake Pressure | 100–120% |
| RWD Differential | 80–100% accel / 60–90% decel |
3.5. Drag Cars
Drag tuning is about launch, traction, and gear spacing. Cornering does not matter. You want the car to leave the line cleanly, stay in the powerband, and avoid bouncing or spinning through the first gears.
| Setting | Best Starting Range |
|---|---|
| Front Tire Pressure | 45–55 PSI |
| Rear Tire Pressure | 15–22 PSI for RWD / 18–25 PSI for AWD |
| Final Drive | Tune for the drag distance |
| 1st Gear | Long enough to avoid instant wheelspin |
| Top Gear | Ends near redline at the finish |
| Front Camber | 0.0 |
| Rear Camber | 0.0 |
| Toe | 0.0 front / 0.0 rear |
| Caster | Low-medium; not critical |
| Anti-Roll Bars | Soft front / stiff enough rear to stay straight |
| Ride Height | Low front / medium rear, depending on launch |
| RWD Differential | 90–100% accel |
| AWD Differential | High accel, rear-biased center split |
4. Best Testing Method After Tuning
A tune only matters if the car performs well in the event type you built it for. Test road cars on road routes, rally cars on dirt, drift cars in drift zones, and drag cars on straights.
- Pick the right test route for the build. Use a technical road race for road cars, a mountain road for touge builds, a dirt route for rally cars, a drift zone for drift cars, a drag strip for drag cars, and a highway for top-speed builds.
- Drive one clean run without changing anything. Pay attention to how the car brakes, turns, exits corners, and handles bumps.
- Fix only the biggest problem first. If the car understeers, adjust front grip. If it oversteers, calm the rear. If it runs out of gear, adjust gearing.
- Change one setting at a time. Do not adjust tire pressure, aero, differential, and springs all together, or you will not know what actually helped.
- Test the car again on the same route. Use the same corners, braking zones, and straights so the comparison is fair.
- Save the tune only when the car feels stable, predictable, and suited to the event type you built it for.

















